Before rushing out to buy grass seed or hauling sod home, take the time to answer these questions:

• How will I use my lawn?
• Will it serve as a play space or showpiece?
• What amount of time and money am I willing to spend?
• How much sun does my lawn receive?
• What type of drainage do I have?
• How even is my property - any slopes or inclines to deal with?
• What kind of soil does my lawn have?
• What competition am I facing from other landscape components?

Going to seed, are you?
It pays to buy good quality grass seed that is ideally suited to your site (a quality grass seed mix could cost from $4.00 and up per pound). By paying a little more up front, you may save in the long run, because your lawn will require less maintenance and chances are you won't have to re-seed.

Read container labels carefully. Select a seed mixture of at least three grass types in accordance with your particular requirements. This increases your chances of developing a lawn that has some diversification and is less susceptible to harmful insects and disease. For your lawn to be resistant to such pests as chinch bugs, sod webworms and bluegrass billbugs, choose grass varieties that are high in endophytes, a naturally occurring beneficial fungus that lives within the grass plant and allows the grass to repel surface feeding insects.

Here in Toronto, you need to look for a seed mixture with generous percentages of one or more cool-season grass types such as fine fescues (chewings, hard, creeping red), perennial ryegrass (avoid annual ryegrass) and Kentucky bluegrass. The better mixes have a lower percentage of "other ingredients." Select high percentages with regard to purity and live germination rates.

Here are some cool-season grass types to consider for home lawns:

Kentucky bluegrass

• A beauty, it's the most popular choice for home lawns, because it spreads easily and uniformly.

• It does best in full sun on well-drained soil.

• Planted alone it requires high nutrient levels (regular doses of fertilizer) and lots of water to remain healthy and not thin out.

Fine fescue

• Fescue grasses (creeping red, chewings, sheep and hard fescue) are low maintenance that produce a strong turf.

• They do well in moderately shady areas but can't handle much wear and tear.

• They will grow better than bluegrass in a wide range of soil conditions - acid, droughty or infertile - however they still require a well-drained soil.

• Fine fescues produce a naturally occurring fungus (endophytes) that grows inside the plant to give it a natural resistance to insects.

Perennial ryegrass

• Select a finely textured "turf-type" because it's hardy and suited to moderate northern climates.

• Use perennial ryegrass as a grass mix because it germinates quickly providing quick green in a newly seeded lawn.

• Perennial ryegrass acts as a "nurse" grass, helping to protect and nurture other grass types.

• It's less heat and drought tolerant than fescues.

• Don't mix in more than 15% or it will overtake your lawn.

When and how to seed from scratch
The best time to sow seed is early fall; mid-August to mid-September while the ground is still moist and warm, yet weed growth is slow and there is enough time for the grass plants to develop good roots before the weather turns very cold. Spring seeding encourages problematic weeds that can smother new grass plants. If you feel you must plant your new lawn in the spring, begin as soon as the soil is dry enough to work (mid-April to mid-May) to allow the grass time to get well established before the hot weather sets in.

First test your soil* before assuming you need to add compost or other organic materials. Once your soil is ready, rake the ground for a smooth, level seedbed. A level area is key, with a gentle slope away from buildings. Ideally your surface has a layer of good topsoil (12-15 centimetres / 4-6 inches deep). Seed small areas by hand from a bucket, mixing soil with the seed before spreading. Choose a still day to minimize seed blowing away. For larger areas, use a push-behind spreader for even application (2-3 kg / 4-6 lb of seed per 93 m 2 / 1,000 sq ft of lawn). Don't skimp when seeding. Tip: Calibrate the spreader to apply seed at half the above recommended rate, then cover the area twice to ensure even coverage. First, spread in one direction (north-south), then at right angles (east-west).

Using a leaf rake, lightly rake the seeds into the top .3 cm (1/8 in) of soil (never bury below .6 cm / 1/4 in). Next, lightly roll the area to place the seed in firm contact with the soil so it can take water to germinate and grow. Lawn rollers can usually be rented. If your lawn is small, in place of renting a lawn roller, you can either gently walk across the seeded soil or use the back of a rake to tap the seed down into the soil. Ensuring firm contact with the soil is very important. Cover the seeded area with a light (weed-free) straw mulch, keeping the soil moist until grass blades grow to 7 cm (3 in) long (this may mean watering the site every day, depending on the weather). Tip: Water slowly and evenly until 2.5 cm (1 in) of topsoil is moist and keep the soil moist until grass seedlings are well established. Avoid creating puddles.

* To test soil from your home lawn or garden, contact:

Agri-Food Laboratories
Unit 1, 503 Imperial Road
Guelph, Ontario
N1H 6T9
Tel: (519) 837-1600
1-800-265-7175
Call Monday-Friday between 8:00am and 4:30pm

Adding seed to an existing lawn
Got a lawn but realize you've got the wrong grass type? Don't dig up your lawn. Overseeding is the solution. In early fall, lightly rake your lawn first to prepare a better soil contact for the seed and then just walk your lawn, sprinkling seed by hand (ratio of 2-3 kg / 4-6 lb seed per 93 m2 / 1,000 sq ft of lawn). Repeat annually for several years to significantly change your grass composition. The natural freezing and thawing of soil will work seed in naturally.

Tip: Happy with your grass type? Overseeding can still help you revitalize your lawn and ensure a dense, thick turf that discourages weeds (turf care professionals overseed golf courses and athletic fields annually).

Resolving problems

1. Lawn is in both sun and shade
   All grass needs sunlight to grow well - some varieties more or less than others. On average, six hours of sun a day is ideal. If your site receives four to six hours of sun, try planting or overseeding the site with fine fescue types of grass (Kentucky bluegrass does best in full sun). Areas with less than four hours of daily sun or in deep shade under a tree canopy should be planted with a shade tolerant groundcover. Check out Metro's "Alternative groundcovers" factsheet for more details.

2. Dealing with weeds
   If you've started with a good layer of quality topsoil, weeds should not be a big problem during early growth. Careful hand weeding is the best solution to getting rid of the few weeds that may appear during the first month and a half. You can discourage weeds by planting the right grasses, mowing high, watering and fertilizing with care and overseeding. Reseed all bare spots with grass to prevent weeds from filling in the space. To further combat weeds, inquire at your local garden centre about new lawn care products made from environmentally-friendly substances.

3. The seed or sod decision
   Many recommend starting a lawn from seed because it's cheaper and it allows you to select the right mixture of low-maintenance grass for your site. The most common type of sod grass available is Kentucky bluegrass and it requires higher applications of fertilizer to look its best. In support of sod, it does hold the soil well, so it is an option for slopes or other areas that could be easily eroded.

For more information related to natural lawn and garden care, please go to www.toronto.ca/health/pesticides/index.htm.